Climate Change Is Redrawing the Wine Map
Why winemaking is shifting—grape by grape, region by region
The Rhythm of Wine, Disrupted
Wine has always been a story of place. For thousands of years, winemakers have worked in sync with the rhythm of the seasons—responding to climate, soil, and local tradition. The idea of terroir is sacred in wine: the belief that geography and microclimate shape flavour in profound and irreplaceable ways.
But what happens when the seasons no longer follow the same rhythm?
Climate change is already altering the fundamentals of wine. From southern Europe to South America, regions that were once stable are now contending with earlier harvests, hotter summers, unpredictable frosts, and long-term drought. At the same time, new regions once considered too cool for viticulture are rising to prominence. The wine map is not just evolving—it’s being redrawn.
The Pressure on Classic Regions
In France, Italy, and Spain—homes to some of the world’s most iconic wines—growers are under pressure. Consider Burgundy, where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay rely on finesse and moderate conditions. The region has seen harvest dates shift forward by nearly three weeks over the last 30 years. Grapes are ripening faster, leading to higher sugar levels (and therefore higher alcohol), reduced acidity, and different flavour expressions.
In Bordeaux, producers are trialling new varietals—such as Touriga Nacional and Marselan—that are more heat- and drought-resistant. In Tuscany, canopy management and night harvesting are becoming standard practice. In Rioja, wineries are planting higher up in the hills to take advantage of cooler conditions and longer growing seasons.
Even Champagne is feeling the change: some maisons have started buying land in southern England, where sparkling wine now thrives thanks to chalky soils and a cooler (but warming) climate.
New Regions, New Possibilities
As traditional regions struggle with heat and extreme weather, cooler zones are coming into their own.
Sweden, Denmark & Poland
Countries in northern Europe are now producing wines of real interest. Sweden’s vineyards grow hybrid grapes like Solaris and Rondo—designed to ripen in shorter seasons and withstand frost. Poland is seeing a sparkling wine renaissance, particularly from producers in Lubusz and Małopolska, with a focus on acidity and freshness.
England
Once the butt of wine jokes, England now produces award-winning sparkling wines, particularly from the chalk-rich soils of Sussex and Kent. Climate change has brought enough warmth to consistently ripen Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for méthode traditionnelle styles.
Tasmania & British Columbia
In the Southern Hemisphere, Tasmania is becoming a benchmark for cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. In Canada, British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley has gone from fringe player to serious producer of aromatic whites and structured reds.
Grapes Under Stress: The Taste Shift
As temperatures rise, grapes develop sugars more rapidly, which leads to:
- Higher alcohol content – Fermentation converts sugar to alcohol. The riper the grape, the stronger the wine.
- Lower natural acidity – Critical for freshness and balance, acidity declines as sugar rises.
- Changed phenolic ripeness – This affects tannins, colour, and flavour compounds, shifting the wine’s structure and ageing potential.
These shifts raise big questions for producers: Should they pick early and risk green flavours? Or later and accept higher alcohol? Should they replant altogether?
In many places, especially for small and artisanal producers, the answer is a careful balancing act.
How Growers Are Responding
- Altitude over latitude: Vines are being planted higher up to access cooler air and slower ripening.
- Soil diversity: More focus is being placed on soil health, cover cropping and water retention.
- Reviving forgotten grapes: In southern France and Greece, indigenous varieties with natural drought tolerance are making a comeback.
- Low-intervention winemaking: Some winemakers are choosing to let the wine reflect the season, leaning into change rather than fighting it.
What This Means for the Wine-Curious
As wine lovers, we’re witnessing a fascinating evolution. Styles are shifting. New names are emerging. And the very definition of “classic” is up for reinterpretation.
This is a moment to stay open, curious, and exploratory. Try a Grüner Veltliner from Austria with African roots. Taste a Sicilian white that’s harvested before sunrise. Explore Argentine wines from vineyards planted nearly 1,500 metres above sea level.
Climate-aware drinking isn’t about restriction—it’s about connection. To land. To people. To the stories told in each bottle.
Wines to Explore
Here are a few bottles in the Raravina cellar that reflect the changes underway—from thoughtful farming to adaptive winemaking:
- Dzimbahwe Grüner Veltliner 2021 – Made in Austria by Zimbabwean winemaker Pardon Taguzu, this wine is a fresh, peppery take on a cool-climate classic, produced with future-forward care.
- Adamo Zibibbo Ruano 2022 – Grown in Sicily’s coastal vineyards, this floral, zesty white reflects the island’s intense sun and increasingly strategic vineyard management.
- Alma Negra Blanco 2022 – From high-altitude Mendoza in Argentina, this textured white is layered with orchard fruit and mineral clarity.
- Douloufakis Muscat Amphora 2021 – Fermented in clay on Crete, this amber wine speaks to both ancient methods and modern adaptation in a warming Mediterranean climate.
Until next time, stay nosey.
